Sunday, December 5, 2010

Chipotle


by Patrick Adams

The Chipotle Mexican Grill chain claims to purchase its food ethically, organically, locally and naturally, but that is not the feeling I get when I step in the door. These types of claims are ones that lead me to believe the atmospheric experience will be warm, cozy and personable, not cold and industrial. Based on looks alone, the Chipotle in Decatur, Georgia does not do justice to the quality of the food. It looks as if the theme of the restaurant has little to do with Mexican heritage, except for a few Mayan-themed bas relief sculptures hanging on the walls.

Ordering the food was just as industrial, but in a good way. It’s an assembly line similar to Subway with the ingredients laid out in front of you. I ordered the burrito bowl, which has a variety of fresh ingredients to select from. The thick paper bowl is filled with a choice of cilantro-lime rice and pinto or black beans. Next you choose a meat, each of which is marinated in their chipotle sauce: grilled chicken, steak, carnitas (sautéed shredded pork) or barbacoa (shredded beef). You can top all that off with guacamole, salsa, cheese and/or sour cream. Although it was difficult to hear the worker over the loud music, at least it was Radiohead rather than Katy Perry. Eventually, though, I communicated over the loudness to the worker I wanted rice, black beans, chicken, guacamole, green tomatillo salsa and cheese.

A section of Chipotle’s menu board is titled “Food With Integrity”, which proudly displays a brief description of the healthy quality of their ingredients. The chicken I ordered was raised without the use of antibiotics or additives in the feed, and their other meats are also naturally raised. Only a portion of the vegetable ingredients are USDA certified organic, but according to the Chipotle Web site, they only buy from suppliers that use sustainable farming practices. Lastly, the cheese on my burrito bowl came from pasture-raised cows, which generally produce more nutritious milk than grain-fed livestock.

Ultimately, the finished product was a palette of various colors, which is usually a good indication of a balanced meal. It smelled amazing. I could easily discern the chipotle marinade, lime and cilantro. Although the burrito bowl was visually appealing in its layers, I prefer to use my patented smash-and-mix technique to keep the overall dish uniform in its flavor and texture. Just like the smell hinted, the chipotle, lime and cilantro were the most potent flavors in the dish, but the red onions also added a sharp bitterness, which was a good extra kick. The flavor was consistently distributed throughout my sludgy mish-mash.

Just one problem: I was freezing! And the stainless steel tables didn’t help. I don’t know if Chipotle is aware, but it’s supposed to be warm in Mexico. If you’re going to be a Mexican grill, then turn up the heat a little. It’s November, and the weather outside was in the forties. Capitalism has endowed us with central heating systems, so it wouldn’t be a bad idea to take advantage of such a modern convenience in late autumn.

The atmosphere was such a big problem that I’m not sure – even with delicious, healthy food – I would ever choose to eat in a Chipotle again. I could get a to-go order and eat it in the comfort of my own home – the restaurant setting is just too uptight. Certainly it has to set itself apart from similar competitors such as Moe’s, Taco Bell and Barbaritos, but a little Mayan-themed décor is not enough to offset the discomfort of stainless steel tables and cold air.

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