Sylvia's Grille

by Emily Jarvis

Sylvia’s Grille is a well-kept secret in Milledgeville, a small town with a scarcity of good eateries. It’s almost as if they don’t want anyone to know they’re there. Tucked away at the end of a strip mall, this quaint bistro is a pleasant surprise if you happen to find it.

The patio is shrouded in lush plants and lit with delicate hanging lamps. Inside, the atmosphere is elegant but cozy. Big booths can accommodate large parties, but are intimate enough for a couple. Copper pots and prints of wine and grapes give the feel of Tuscany. Appropriately, the menu is heavily Italian, but with plenty of variety.

At the peak of weekend lunchtime, the place was nearly empty. Three parties came and went in the time we were there. The fact that it was the season’s coldest Saturday may be to blame, but having driven by several times, I sense this is the norm. Empty as it was, the atmosphere was stiflingly quiet. Toward the end of our meal, some music finally drifted over the speakers. I imagine silence isn’t protocol, but again, I’ll chalk it up to a slow Saturday.

On the menu are standard appetizers, including mozzarella sticks, Buffalo shrimp and calamari. There are also regional and specialty options, like Oysters Rockefeller, steamed mussels and fried green tomatoes. We settled on the Spinach Artichoke Dip, presumably a safe bet. It was satisfying, though not overwhelmingly so. The artichokes tasted pre-frozen, but the spinach was fresh and green and the tortilla chips were fried fresh.

Sylvia’s focus is clearly pasta, but they offer much more than bolgnese and fettuccine alfredo. Margaritaville Lobster Pasta and Key West Penne showcase a wide variety of seafood, including scallops, shrimp and lobster, and Andouille and Chicken Creole Pasta is an intriguing adaptation of classic Louisiana fare. Sylvia’s features a seasonal menu in addition to the regular dinner options. Autumn’s menu includes hearty additions like Coq au Vin and Bratwursts. The prices are considerably higher for these dishes, $20 on average, but the descriptions made them appear well worth the extra cost.

The lunch menu is extensive, featuring a variety of sandwiches and two entrees. . The soup of the day was crab bisque—it would have been the perfect thing on a cold day, but I missed the last bowl by a matter of minutes. The Buffalo Chicken Wrap was unpretentiously well done. Buffalo chicken fingers, lettuce, tomatoes and a wonderful homemade buttermilk ranch dressing were wrapped in a flour tortilla and accompanied by enormous French fries. The Beer-Battered Tilapia with Sweet Potato Chips was an inventive take on classic pub fare. The dauntingly large filet was crispy and flaky, if a bit under-seasoned, and the sweet potato chips were enjoyable. Simply fried and salted, they had a nice crispness with some chew in the centers.

If you happen upon this place, you’re in luck. Walmart shopping centers are known for many things; harboring delightful little bistros is not among them. Dinner mates may give you the side-eye when you suggest a fine dining experience so near the cart corral, but the food and ambience at Sylvia’s provide the downtown Milledgeville feel without the parking hassle.